Install chimney flashing tile roof

Bend a piece of cap flashing to fit around the top corner of the chimney and add the cap flashing across the back of the chimney. First, be sure your chimney is structurally sound. The rubber boot is trimmed to fit around the pipe and then secured to the roof with screws and sealant. Cut and fold pan flashing to fold up the back of the chimney and over the sidewall trim.

The area you live in, the weather conditions, the shape and size of the chimney, as well as the roofing material will all help determine the best type of flashing for your chimney.

This avoids the need for climbing up and down the roof later. Fast flash quick weatherproof flashing for almost all roof types. Here we'll look at a. The origin of the term flash and flashing are uncertain, but may come from the middle english verb flasshen, 'to sprinkle, splash', related to flask. Start the flashing job by installing the first piece of base flashing across the bottom of the chimney.

Verea clay tile roof concrete tile roof concrete tile roof in miami springs Then place the upper edge of the base underneath the tiles up stream. When installing a chimney single step flashing, using individual layers of flashing, it is best to lay your roof tiles and lead flashing at the same time.

Each layer of flashing is then covered by the roof tile as you work your way up the side of your chimney. Pan flashing should extend at least 12 inches up the roof plane. Midland Lead flashings installed House roof, Roof edge. Pin on leadwork. Pin on roofing. Copper, Clay and Clay tiles on Pinterest. Pin on Roof work. Copper cricket installation on chimney Metal roof, Sheet. Pin on Group Board. Pin on Exterior Projects. Pin on roof flashing at rear of a chimney. Pin on Home improvement.

Cookie Settings. Learn why people trust wikiHow. Download Article Explore this Article parts. Tips and Warnings. Things You'll Need. Related Articles. Article Summary. Part 1. Determine the type of tile you want. There are a number of different grades of tile to choose from, and you must identify the grade that fits the climate in which the building is situated.

Just as vitally, you must determine whether you would prefer clay or concrete tiles various grades based on climatic conditions are available for both.

They differ in a number of ways, and so the choice is a significant one. While concrete roofing tiles are typically expected to survive years, in the right conditions a well made clay roof might be expected to last years.

Though durable, clay tiles can be more expensive and neither option is particularly cheap. For any roof that you will likely have for multiple decades, this is certainly an issue to think about.

Consider the impact of weight. To put it in simplest terms, a basic asphalt shingle perhaps the most common roofing material in America will typically place a weight of less than 3 pounds per square foot on a roof. Concrete tiles, which are usually lighter than clay tiles, can easily place over 10 pounds of weight per square foot on a roof. If you are adding tiles to a roof that did not previously have them, or to a design which did not originally incorporate them, the roof may not be capable of carrying the excess weight.

In his case, you will need to have your roof inspected and possibly reinforced to bear the load. Make a list of necessary materials and tools. While some of these are common--for example, it is recommended that you have a ladder--others are rather specific to this task and are items that are likely not yet in your inventory. For example: Gasket nails are a type of nail with an interior plastic cap that will help seal nail holes and prevent leaks. This is the water-resistant layer between the tiles and the roof frame and sheathing.

A number of varieties are available, but because this is a roof intended to last from 30 to year, it is probably a good idea to invest in one of the heavy-duty options. There are a number of caulks or sealants available for outdoor use, but once again it is recommended that you use especially durable and high quality products.

This roof could last a lifetime, but it won't if the materials don't suit the requirements of the job. Develop an estimate of the materials. The most important staring point comes from your roof dimensions. You can use this calculator to help you determine the size of your roof do not use the function titled "Tile Calculator," which is clearly intended for interior floor tile. Without specific information about the type of tile selected, it is impossible to estimate the number of tiles necessary to complete a job.

A square foot section of roof could require anywhere from 75 to tiles. Plan for a specific time. If you are going to replace the roof of an existing home, you must factor in the weather and the time you have available in which to complete this job. While it is obvious that you aren't going to want to rip your roof on during the winter, you must also look for dry days. Check the long-term weather reports with an understanding that forecasts do change.

Also, make sure you have enough manpower available to complete this project in a timely manner. This is not a one person job, and you will have to plan accordingly. Purchase the necessary materials and tools.

While you are obtaining the materials, do consult with hardware store employees who may have special knowledge about the products. If customers have been complaining about a faulty product, they may have some knowledge about it.

Part 2. Remove old roofing if applicable. This is, on its own, a major job that can take days and require special tools. Be prepared to take the time to do this right. Repair and reinforce the roof if applicable. You should have reinforced the frame of the roof earlier before stripping any existing roof off. That said, the sheathing--the layer of wood or other material that covers the area between the relatively open frame and the outer layers of roofing--may be damaged or weak.

Strengthen it. Again, think about the weight involved. The fairly cheap and common shingle roofs that many people have are quite light; if you are transitioning from a light roof to a tile roof, the weight difference will be substantial. For a relatively average house with a 1, square foot roof, the total of underlayment and tiles will equal something approaching 8 tons in weight. That's more than the equivalent of having two large SUVs parked on top of your house.

Install the underlayment. As you roll out the underlay, keep the bottom edge of the material aligned with the edge of the eave but above any metal or synthetic edging that may cover the borders of the eave.

Secure the underlayment. Roll out 10 foot 3 m -long sections at a time, and then secure it with nails separated by intervals of 24 inches. Related Articles. All rights reserved. This image may not be used by other entities without the express written consent of wikiHow, Inc. Take off the old flashing. Scrape away old flashing and cement with a hammer and chisel.

Cut the base flashing. Use tin snips to cut the bent base flashing that you ordered from the sheet metal shop. Cut the flashing to fit along the chimney's front.

Bend 1 side of the flashing around 1 edge of the chimney. Secure the base flashing. The part of the flashing that lies flush with the roof should overlap the roofing shingles. The bent edge should fit around 1 corner of the chimney. Use tin snips to clip the flashing at the point where the other side of the chimney lies against the flashing. Bend the clipped flashing around the chimney.

Hammer 4 galvanized roofing nails into the part of the flashing lying against the roof. Ensure that the nails are spaced evenly. Attach the corner and step flashing. Fit an 8-inch Set the flashing aside. Place a small drop of caulk where the roof and chimney meet at the chimney corner. Place the step flashing over the caulk and onto the chimney. Hammer 2 roofing nails into the flashing and roof. Secure a shingle over the corner flashing using a hammer and roofing nail. Place a second piece of 8-inch The flashing should partially overlap the shingle that covers the first piece of flashing.

Secure a shingle over the second piece of flashing with a nail. Repeat the process until you have gone all the way around the chimney. Secure the chimney saddle. Fit the chimney saddle around the back of the chimney.

Use a hammer and roofing nails to attach the saddle to the roof. Insert roofing nails into the saddle and roof every 6 inches Place shingles over the flat part of the saddle. Nail the shingles and saddle into the roof.

Install the cap flashing. The grooves should be 1 inch 2. Saw as high as the height of the cap flashing. Fit the front cap flashing around the front of the chimney. Bend the cap flashing around the front of the chimney.